Broadsands (wild camp) to Gullane Bay...
Last night, we slept really well, cushioned by a soft bed of sand underneath us and the tent to keep the morning dew at bay. Waking, the air felt warm but not as warm as it had been all day. We soon had the tent down and were on our way. Hanging around at camp in the morning is not something we usually like to do, profering to 'get walking'. Today we had a reason to get going, today we would meet up with Sarah. We were excited and nervous for the day ahead.
Today is our last day on this section of the coast. The 'last' days always feel a little like the first. We had gotten into our rhythm and felt safe and at home, only to know that it would be ending abruptly today. The dawning of reality, the bursting of the bubble we had constructed around us as we walked
We would have to force ourselves back into a world we don't feel we belong in or have a place in. We would fall, stumbling from one moment or place to the next, dreaming and hoping, holding tight, so tight it hurts, to the hope of returning home once more to the coast, to our tent, and to the place we belong!
We left Broadsands, heading around the bay onto a rocky section, where we zig-zagged from beach to grass, to dunes and back again. It was an exciting and very changable section of coast, and we both enjoyed it greatly. From short sections of sandy beach to rocky outcrops that looked as wild and remote as anywhere on the west coast of Scotland.
The most remarkable aspect was how clear and still the ocean was today. If I were feeling poetic, it was like it was feeling sad at our departure... or that's what we hoped!
Trying to break this section down into obvious sections has proven to be a challenge, so I will keep the vast selection of images for you to look at. If you look at them one at a time, it should take you on the same journey Eve and I went on, better than I could describe it!
Looking back towards our camping spot and also the island of Fidra
The clear still water of ocean and Eve eating breakfast as she walks
The smell of the flowers in the morning is always refreshing to the sole after a long night.
Dropping onto another rocky beach and the small monument. This of the coast was very interchangeable and fun to walk along
More beautifully clear water as we approach Black Rocks. Runners in the area of Black Rocks.
Approaching Gullane Bay. The excitement of seeing Sarah building
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Gullane Bay... and finding Sarah
We arrived at Gullane Bay excited and feeling a distinct change in the air. We were excited to see Sarah and see the clouds circling above us menacingly across the water!
Walking in Gullane, we were taken aback at how busy it was. This is a usual theme for us, so accustomed to being alone, seeing just a few people, and friendly dog walkers are enough to make us jump and raise our pulse. Living in a bubble while walking isn't always good; when it pops, we feel it.
We knew Sarah was in the area because we had been tracking her (we can track each other's iPhones). We were scanning the beach long and wide in search of her when we spotted her in the distance, on the hillside, waving her arms around like a woman possessed! Eve broke into a slow run, only to be slowed to a standstill by the sand underfoot! We walked together at a pace towards the first available path, heading towards the car park.
The path Gullane car park we took in the search for Sarah and Gullane Hall
We found her... or did she find us? Either way, it felt good, and we were happy to be together.
Finding Sarah was a relief. I worry too much about her having to drive to drop us off and pick us up again regularly! She really is the most amazing woman in the world, and we love her so much!
We didn't stop for long, knowing we still had a few miles left and the weather was closing in. We thought we would get wet, but we had no idea how soon or just how dangerous it would get!
Gullane Bay to Hummell Rocks and Gullane Point... and it started to rain... a lot!
Eve and I headed off after a quick snack and drink with Sarah, leaving Sarah behind and dropping back into Gullane Bay. Almost immediately after getting back onto the beach, the rain started pouring, the wind gusted, and the temperature dropped.
We were cold and wet for the first time in days!
It felt odd to wear waterproof jackets, and with so much residual heat still in our bodies, we opted to forgo the waterproof trousers and manage the wet. Managing the wet and not fighting it is something we learned to do many years ago, and for good reason. It's impossible to stay dry when hiking for multiple days in the rain!
As we walked around Gullanme Bay, we passed a group of youths doing some training. What for? I have no idea. It wasn't football or lifeguards and didn't look like a fitness session. They were very enthusiastic under the watchful eye of a man shouting commands like a army drill sergeant! We walked on by and headed onto Hummel Rocks and Gullane Point
Hummell Rocks and Gullane Point
At any other time over the last few days, Hummell Rocks and Gullane Point would have been fun—an exciting wee scramble into the unknown beyond. Today, in the rain, the rocks had turned icy smooth, making for a slow and treacherous scramble.
We took it very slow and met a couple walking in the opposite direction who looked genuinely fearful for their safety. It wasn't until we got closer that I realised the father had a baby strapped to his front! We offered them some help, which they politely declined. We passed each other, hoping they made it back to the beach beyond safety!
Once over the rocks, we were on a long rocky beach. It was easy to walk but filled with hazards, including thousands of standing Jellyfish.
We have never seen so many jellyfish, stranded in one small area. I did take a picture, but there were so many that the image didn't show them very well. They look like pebbles on the beach, not jellyfish. We walked like we were on a giant game of hopscotch!
The rain eased off as we approached Aderlady Nature Reserve.
Hummell Rocks and Gullane Point
Thousands of jellyfish
Aberlady Bay and Nature Reserve
Aberlady Bay and Nature Reserve was the start of the end, or, as we would soon realise, the start of something altogether more scary!
Aberlady Bay and Nature Reserve are stunningly beautiful, and on a hot day like we had been having, they would have been absolutely spectacular.
This section started with a walk along a rough shore that would take us upon rocks and drop us immediately again toward small bays and miniature beaches. We walked quietly, hoping to see seals or other wildlife.
Soon, the rocky coast gave way to the wide and flat expanse of Aberlady Bay—a huge flat area of sand and sand dunes for miles. It was gorgeous in all directions, and it felt like being on the other side of the world, not a few miles from Edinburgh!
It was while we were walking along the sand, nothing on either side of us, hiking poles in hand, that we saw it.
The flash that lit up the sky and the bang that shook our souls to the core!
Thunder and Lightning on Aderlady Bay...
We ran... fast and hard, dropping our metal hiking poles and heading for the first sand dune we could see.
Light... bang, the rumble... it was within a few miles of us and lighting can travel a lot futher than that!
We were in danger. Real. Immediate. Danger!
We ran...
Flash... BANG...
We ran harder... our lungs now burning our legs like jelly.
Flash... BANG... RUMBLE...
Flash...
I know the theory for dealing with lighting while hiking. That would not help us today, stranded on the expanse of a flat beach. The theory tells you to lose height FAST. Get off a summit, drop to the ground, ideally squating to minimise height and contact with the ground.
The problem was... we were the tallest objects for miles around.
Have you tried squatting? Nothing in contact with the ground but the soles of your shoes, for an hour or two, maybe more. The BMC advises sitting on your backpack, but even so, we would be several feet taller than anything around us for miles. We needed to lose height. We needed a small sand dune, and we needed to bury ourselves in it, under it, and let the ground swallow us up. That was my plan, and that's what we did.
Flash... BANG...RUMBLE... it was getting louder and closer...
One missisipi, two missisipi
Flash... BANG... RUMBLE.
Our bodies shook with each one. We held each other, and I consoled Eve whilst trying to calm my nerves.
The rain falling hard. Stairrods in the sky. Sand bounced from the beach with each impact from the rain. The entire beach was shaking... we were shaking.
Looking over the vast expanse of beach, we waited for the lightning to strike, to hit the ground. A blinding flash of light and energy.
Forcing our bodies deeper into the sand, trying desperately to hide and let the ground engulf us, we sat, waiting and hoping. I did not dare use my phone out of fear of creating a line in the sky, a target for the lightning to hone in on.
We knew Sarah would be waiting, probably more scared than we were. I had no way to tell her we were okay. I dairdent.
Flash...
Bang...
RUMBLE...
Every time we thought it was gone, it hit us... harder.
Flash...
Bang...
RUMBLE...
We waited... and waited some more...
THEN... silence.
There were no more flashes. No more bangs. No more rumbles that resented in our chests and stomachs.
We sat, we waited.
Calm and patient, like a mouse at the edge of a spring-loaded trap, wishing, willing, hoping the cheese would fall off, knowing it would have to have the courage to snatch it off, hard as fast as it could...
SNAP... the mouse survived!
We survived.
We were soaked to the skin, covered in sand from head to toe, and experiencing a severe adrenaline comedown. Our emotions were high.
We wanted to get out of there. We needed to get out of there!
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The critcle escape plan!
As soon as we felt safe enough to move, we did. Instead of staying close to the beach, we retreated into the nature reserve, keeping in the sand dunes and open coast to our right-hand side.
We made quick progress—not running but also not walking. We kept our walking poles collapsed, not to advertise ourselves to the storm by holding 4-foot lightning conductors in our hands! We didn't stop to take pictures, instead fociing on the walk!
It felt good to be on the move, but it also made us feel vulnerable. We felt, albeit briefly, safe, buried in the side of the small dune on the beach's edge.
Sarah had been tracking us all along and was immediately relieved when she saw us moving at speed towards her. Ten minutes later, we were approaching the long wooden footbridge into the nature reserve car park on the edge of Aberlady.
As soon as Eve spotted Sarah, she started to run, only to be told by Sarah to "stop running." This is Sarah's usual command, so I knew something was amiss! The wooden bridge, now soaked, had turned as slippery as any ice rink. The chance of a slip, or worse, falling off the bridge through the handrail was considerable. The bridge was old, worn and weathered! Eve walked with purpose.
At the car, Eve and Sarah had a huge cuddle, and both were clearly real and happy in each other's presence! I was also happy to be back with Sarah and the safety of a car—a very rare feeling for me to experience!
We took a moment to try to remove sand from places where sand should not be and have a wee drink (of Sarah's coffee out of her flask) Thank you Sarah!!!
The village of Aberlady... and beyond.
We didn't have much further to go from the car park with Sarah, so after a quick break, we donned backpacks and headed off down the road towards Aberlady.
We reached Aberlady quickly, still feeding off the adrenaline from earlier. The rain had now stopped, but the air was wet and the ground soaked. We even managed to snack on a few early blackberries!
Once in Aberlady, we turned right, keeping the coast to our right and heading into another golf club!
From the nature reserve at Aberlady to the village of Aberlady and the Kilspindle Gold Club
Craigielaw and Kilspindie golf courses, and millions of Razor Clam shells!
The Golf Club was deserted, which should not have come as a surprise after the thunderstorm. Having people walk around and wave steel lighting rods above their heads isn't a great idea!
But always a silver lining... we had the place and the coast to ourselves! Wonderful...
We walked, keeping to the edge of the golf course, which undulated and changed from flat grass to a rocky coast, keeping the walk interesting. The further around the golf course we walked, the more remote it started to feel, despite the fact that we were approaching a busy road.
Eventually, we ended up on the beach, walking over millions of Razor Clam shells. I have never seen anything quite like it. We have walked beaches covered in shells, but not like this. It was like walking on a bed of glass! The shells cracked and snapped with every footstep, creating a noise that resonated in our ears like fingernails pulled down a blackboard.
Before long, we were very close to the road and had to deviate off the beach and into a small wooded area that would put us next to the road and the final section of walking today!
Craigielaw and Kilspindie golf clubs and a beach full of razor clams!
The last push - A198 to Ferny Ness, Longniddry and Sarah...
We entered the trees, knowing it would be the last proper look at the coast for this section. Eve was getting weary from the effects of the adrenaline wearing off and the inevitable comedown kicking in hard. I was also feeling it by this point!
The rain was also coming back on, and for the first time this week, we started to feel the cold. The best solution is to keep moving forward. Stopping, even for a break, will only prolong the challenge and drop the temperature further. We kept walking slowly whilst Eve ate the last of her Ritz biscuits.
We plodded on, tired, cold, and in need of rest. If Sarah had not been picking us up, we would have put the tent up, crawled into our sleeping bags with a Nalgene full of hot tea, and talked about how epic and awesome the hiking life is, which it is... despite the events of the last few hours, we wouldn't have it any other way!
The woodland beside the A198 and looking back over Gosford Sands towards Aberlady Bay
The end of this section at Ferny Ness, Longniddry
We reached Ferny Ness, Longniddry as the rain started to pour again. Dropping our bags in the boot, we climbed in, a feeling of melancholy washing over us.
We really, honestly and sincerely didn't want to stop hiking, and we definitely didn't want to go home! But with work the next day, we had no choice!
The drive home was long and filled with silence. As great as it was to be back together, the longing for a different life, the hiking life of the last few years, was as strong as it could be!
We have found our place in this world, our journey through life... and all we need is a backpack and the motivation to keep going.
We can't wait to be back... and we will be... just not soon enough!
I hope you enjoyed this journal. Please consider supporting us. Your support means so much and helps us more than I can possibly tell you. Thank you. Ian 🙏🏻
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Your support is highly appreciated and means so much to us both.
Thank you. Ian & Eve (and Sarah) 🙏
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