The Isle of Bute is one of Scotland’s most accessible islands, just a short ferry ride across the Firth of Clyde from Weymss Bay to Rothesay.
Although it is very accessible I feel it does not receive the attention that it clearly deserves.
For such a small island, of just 15miles long and 5 miles wide, it certainly packs a punch.
We had planned a full days schedule and in all honesty we could have done with at least another day or two. There was so much to see and do. Even we underestimated its charm!
So if you’re looking for a weekend away, definitely consider the Isle of Bute.
Ferry options
There are actually two ferry ports. The first, and main one, is from Weymss Bay to Rothesay, with a crossing time of approximately 30 minutes.
The other option departs from Colintraive on the Cowal Peninsula to Rhubodach at the northern point on Bute. This option takes a mere 10 minutes.
We chose to try both ferry options, arriving at Rhubodach and departing from Rothesay. Let the adventure begin
Ettrick Bay
First stop was Ettrick Bay.
Ettrick Bay is a stunning wide sandy beach located on the west coast, stretching along the waters edge for just over a mile.
There is parking at both ends of the beach with a cafe and toilets at the northern end.
Although we didn’t visit the cafe on this trip, Ian and Eve stopped there on their West Island Way hike in 2024 and said the food and drinks were delicious. So that’s recommendation enough!
Before leaving this area of you fancy a wee drive head up the west coast road from the cafe car park and you’ll see some stunning scenery and beaches. We stopped here for lunch.
St Colmac’s Church
On the route back towards the east coast of the island you’ll pass St Colmac’s Church. This is definitely worth a stop.
There is a car park approximately 50m from the church. Once parked you will need to walk back up the road to gain access to the church. Care must be taken as it’s a fast road.
Built in 1835 this stunning church now sits in ruins. Gradual depopulation and a lack of funds led to the church’s closure in 1980 with the roof being removed shortly after.
Although you can enter the ruins, please take care as the ground is uneven underfoot.
The church is surrounded by a large burial ground with an impressive array of 19th and 20th century memorials which we enjoyed a respectful wander around.
Rothesay
Situated on the east coast in the centre of the island lies the stunning Victorian town of Rothesay. There is so much to offer here in this wee town.
Historically Rothesay became a popular Victorian seaside resort due to its close proximity to Glasgow where people would travel on paddle steamers to enjoy the town. Since then it has retained and restored some of these original stunning features.
The first, and most random, are the Victorian toilets located next to the port. These toilets were built in 1899 and have since been excellently restored to their original condition. Every part is the original part except for the cisterns. However only the gentlemen’s toilets are of Victorian date with the female toilets added in 1994 during the restoration. Female visitors are able to have a look but please ensure the toilets are empty first. There is usually an attendant present who will check for you.
Rothesay has some amazing Victorian architecture along its frontage surrounding the bay. There is a well maintained promenade with beautiful gardens housing the now refurbished Discovery centre. This building is quintessentially Victorian built in the 1920’s made in a circular shape made from cast iron and glass. It’s stunning to say the least.
You could spend a good few hours walking along the promenade admiring the surroundings.
Stepping away from front you will stumble across the incredible Rothesay castle. Built in the 1200s it now sits amount at the shops, homes and general bustle of the town. The castle is now owned by Historic Scotland and can be visited for a few or free with membership.
We chose not to visit but spend some time walking around the outside of the castle. It’s unique in that it is in a circular shape and still retains its moat. Definitely worth a visit!
Mount Stuart
From Rothesay we headed south and made a stop at Mount Stuart.
Mount Stuart is a 19th century country Manor House featuring stunning Victorian gothic architecture and extensive and well maintained gardens.
This is an absolute must on our list.
However ticket prices are expensive with an adult costing nearly £19. Nonetheless if you are into architecture I feel it would be money well spent.
We did not pay to go inside but we were able to park in the car park and wander around the external areas of the magnificent house. I’m not sure the word ‘house’ does it justice!
We then continued our tour towards the southern end of Bute, stopping at Kilchattan Bay where Ian and Eve stayed during their hike. They pointed out the shop where they bought Eve an ice cream (thank you all again for your generosity on Buy me a Coffee).
St Blane’s Chapel
Continuing south we parked up in the car park for St Blane’s Chapel and began the 15 minute walk up the hill. It was relatively steep but easy enough if you take your time.
Nestled in a sheltered hollow between the hills this medieval church dates back to the AD 500s.
The remains of the chapel are surprisingly extensive as is the surrounding churchyard with a large number of weathered grave stones.
The views from the chapel are incredible, with such a peaceful and calming ambience.
Back to the car and the last stop on our wee tour…the pencil box.
The pencil box
The pencil box - now this was unique and pretty cool. No, it’s not a pencil box. It’s a wee shop like none you will have visited before.
Situated in Ballianlay the pencil box is a lovingly repurposed phone booth. It offers home made cakes and other sweets treats, fresh eggs, cards for any occasion and postcards. There is also a book swap too!
Home time
And there ended our short and sweet trip to the Isle of Bute. From the pencil box it was only a 15 minute drive to Rothesay ferry terminal, a 10 minute wait and a 30 minute crossing back to the mainland.
We had an amazing day on Bute and will definitely be back to explore more of this wee island.
Did you enjoy this journal?
If you did, please consider buying Eve and me a coffee or hot chocolate at Buy Me a Coffee.
Your support is highly appreciated and means a lot to us both.
Thank you. Ian & Eve 🙏
Comments